Bubble Tea

Pisco loves bubble tea.  It’s an acquired taste, perhaps, as the flavor and texture are completely alien to a non-local palate, but once you begin to like it, life suddenly becomes worth living again.  I’ve tried three local (Sheung Wan) tea shops and here are my recommendations.

Saint’s Alp Teahouse near Western Market serves a great bubble tea in their brightly coloured cafes (several HK locations). They claim to have introduced Taiwan-style bubble tea to Hong Kong when their Mong Kok location opened in 1994.  Their customization options are somewhat limited (or at least, it is not obvious to me how to customize your order), but they put the tea in a shaker machine so it arrives with a nice 2cm frothy head on it.  A great way to cool down on a hot day – I recommend enjoying your order in their heavily air-conditioned location.

Gong Cha is an actual Taiwanese chain that seems to be acquiring a devoted following in Hong Kong – note the long lines at most locations.  Their tiny stalls serve takeout-only drinks, and they have numerous customization options (tea flavor, tapioca/other additions, ice, sugar).  I’ve had teas from their Sheung Wan and Aberdeen locations, and they are indeed quite good.  However, the last bubble tea I ordered was not quite cold enough, and the tea had enough caffeine in it to set my heart aflutter for the remains of the day.  They may shake their tea but I didn’t notice any significant froth in the plastic cup.  Nonetheless, they are a solid shop that deserves a visit (or three).  12 HKD

Tea Bread just opened a location in Sheung Wan, on the corner of Jervois and Morrison.  They also have customization options for tea flavor, additions, ice, and sugar.  I found their tea to be mild (ie, not overly caffeinated), their tapioca firm, and the ice cold.  Tea Bread bubble tea is my favorite afternoon treat, and at 10 HKD it’s quite economical; I only hope they can stay in business!  The drinks are made behind a black curtain, but I once spotted the back room acolytes furiously shaking the tea, and the resulting frothy mix was all the more delicious.  Tea Bread also slips a paper cover around the plastic cup, so your tender hands are protected from the icy contents, and they stay dry even though the condensation will rain down onto your feet.  It’s a small detail but a very nice touch.  Highly recommended.

Yes, it’s now summer in Hong Kong, but with a hefty boba nai cha in hand, you will handle it with ease.

XTC Gelato

Pisco stumbled upon XTC Gelato on a recent hog, muggy night.  The small shop beckoned with a promise of temporary relief from the soggy oven that is Hong Kong summer; I dropped in to check it out.

It’s a small shop but there is a decent selection of gelato – perhaps 15-20 flavors.  I picked up a double scoop – half pear/port, half lemon.  Both were interesting – the pear/port getting my vote for originality, with both flavors coming out clearly, though the texture is perhaps closer to a pear than a typical gelato.  The limone was fresh and light and tart, served with a scraper to enhance the light mouthfeel.

I saw that they have affogato, surely one of the best creations to come out of Italy (after carbonara), and I will surely be back to try it.

XTC Gelato
45 Cochrane St
Central, Hong Kong
[map]
(multiple locations)

Green Waffle Diner

Pisco loves diners.  Pisco loves waffles (although this love was unknown until a spell in Brussels).  So perhaps it is not surprising that Pisco loves Green Waffle Diner, a new restaurant in Central on Graham Street.

The clear theme is waffles, and they are available with breakfast, lunch, or dinner choices.  The waffles are large, substantially larger than an iPhone, but not quite as vast as an iPad.  An iPad-sized waffle… now I am swooning… but I digress.  They are light and airy (unlike a Brussels gaufre) – perfectly cooked, almost ephemeral on the palate, but they stand up to a host of accompaniments (because the waffle is always the star).  I am not clear on the original provenance of this style; I almost want to say it’s a brioche-style waffle, since its texture, lightness, and sophistication all remind me of a perfect brioche, but whatever the history, the folks here have chosen a great concept and can execute it very competently.

There are many breakfast dishes available, and breakfast is available all day.  Let me repeat: all day breakfast is alive and well, and you don’t have to put up with the Flying Pan crowd to get it.  Several savory dinner choices also exist, and several of these are also served with waffles.

All day breakfast

Here is the all-day breakfast.  One perfect waffle, a couple scramble eggs, sausage links, home fries, and toast.  As good as the waffle is, the scrambled eggs stand out – they are slow-cooked, and have a creamy texture so rarely found in restaurant fare (Pisco makes these at home, but they take 25 minutes).  A variety of toast options are also available; I suggest wheat rather than the white in the photo.  The sausages are juicy, savory, and soft to the touch.  The home fries were fine, but on a plate with the waffle, eggs, and sausage, they were outclassed.  Kind of like the least talented player on Brazil’s World Cup team – undoubtedly a world-class star but he’s just warming the bench in South Africa.

Pisco ordered the Fried Chicken and Waffle for dinner.  Two drumsticks are normally served, but I asked for an extra because I knew K would want one.  I’ve already waxed poetic over the waffle, so let’s focus on the chicken: it’s another A grade.  Juicy on the inside, crisp on the outside, it is a marvel.  I’ve eaten fried chicken with biscuits all my life, but now there is no looking back: it’s waffles from here on out.  It’s a great combination – the rich, juicy chicken, crunchy and slightly salty skin, a light waffle, and a slightly sweet syrup.  Well done.

Fried chicken and waffle

The chef came out to visit as we were finishing up and asked how it was.  We told him that it was fantastic and asked what his secret was.  Somewhat surprisingly, he said, “We sous-vide the chicken, then deep-fry it.”  So there you have it: get yourself a Sous Vide Supreme, set up a deep fryer in your tiny Hong Kong kitchen, and you can make this dish at home.  Except your waffles will not be as good.

The folks who run this place seem very cool and they definitely know what they are doing.  Slow-cooked scrambled eggs?  Sous vide fried chicken?  I can only wonder what other tricks they have up their sleeves.

I have only a few suggestions for a better experience.  First, I prefer my home fries a little crispier.  Second, consider adding Vermont maple syrup as an upgrade/side order – your waffles deserve only the best.  Most importantly, consider adding a colourful garnish on the plate.  A sprig of parsley would go a long way on my dish filled with a golden waffle, golden fried chicken, and golden home fries; the bland, monocolour aesthetic belies the quality of the meal you are about to experience.

Yes, my biggest complaint is that I want better garnish for my photos.

Pisco recommends the lychee smoothie, which hit the spot on this warm summer evening.

Two plates of food and two smoothies ran around 200 HKD, ridiculously cheap considering the quality of the food.

Food: A
Service: A
Ambiance: B
Value: A

Green Waffle Diner
35-39 Graham St
Central, Hong Kong
2887 9991

Time Out HK review
Green Waffle Diner on OpenRice