Teakha

One of the things I like most about Hong Kong is the energy, excitement, and near-frantic pace of life.  The city is almost offensively vibrant, teeming with people who are On Their Way Up or simply scratching to survive.  Young and old alike are in constant motion, even on the many trails that course through the green spaces far away from 7-Elevens and HSBC ATMs.

The downside of this intensity is the lack of spaces that are calm.  Most cafes are frenetic, exemplified by the local cha chaan tengs who generally want you to order, eat, and pay as quickly as possible.  Understandable, certainly, but not conducive to working your way through the NYT Sunday Edition or the FT Weekend crossword.

Enter Teakha with its tranquil space just off Tai Ping Shan Street in Sheung Wan.  It’s a beautiful shop, with canisters of tea stacked on shelves and the delightful scent of fresh pastries wafting through the air.  On weekends, you might find a couple musicians out back, singing to the patrons on street.  It’s a lovely scene in a quiet setting.

Teakha serve food, but I’ve never eaten any – the gravitational force of their tea and pastry is simply too strong.  Among many options, they serve authentic Hong Kong milk tea, and it’s made on demand – freshly boiled, richly flavored, and not too sweet.

The Thai iced tea is also classic and spectacular.  I highly recommend it for hot days, especially if you’re sitting outside.

The pastries are numerous and quite innovative.  On my last visit I sampled the yuzu financier, and the slight tartness of the yuzu was a nice balance to the the richness of the financier.

Nana, the founder of Teakha, carriers herself with a preternatural grace, even when the shop is bursting with patrons, which happens regularly on weekend afternoons.  She’ll often ask you what you think of the flavors as they are continually tuning the recipes.  I will admit that I am a little intimidated to give any opinion, seeing as how she exists on an astral tea plane far above any I will ever glimpse.  That, and the tea and pastries are already perfect.

The shop is quite small, seating perhaps ten people inside, and another 10-15 outside.  If it’s crowded, don’t panic, just order a tea to go and take a walk around the neighborhood, which is filled with interesting galleries and lifestyle stores.

Teakha has a certain magic around its tea, snacks, and location that makes it an experience unlike any other in Hong Kong today.  They take their tea very seriously, and the care and precision that goes into each cup shines through in every sip.

Teakha
18 Tai Ping Shan Street
Sheung Wan, Hong Kong [map]
2858 9185

 

Saint’s Alp Teahouse

Pisco is happy to report that Saint’s Alp Teahouse in Hong Kong (where it was founded) is every bit as good as the one in NYC. Apparently the branding has changed, so the interior is bright orange (from dark green), but the tea and snacks are as weird and vibrant as ever (toast with condensed milk? Check.).

Apparently they imported the concept from Taiwan, so there are now two food experiences that I love from there: Saint’s Alp and Din Tai Fung.